I made some good progress on drafting the pattern last night.
I had discovered earlier this week, when I looked at the pattern more closely while transferring to graph paper, that the Henrician gown is designed to hang open. I confirmed with Ryan (the friend for whom I’m making the ropa) that he wants it to be able to close. Using the French pattern in History of Costume as a visual guide and the Tudor Tailor‘s doublet pattern for a similar grid layout, I bridged the gap between the original pattern and our goal.
From there, I set about expanding the pattern to match the measurements I’d taken for him. I hadn’t taken a full suite of measurements yet since the ones I’d taken had been done in a spare moment one morning while we were setting up before a day working at the Bristol Renaissance Faire. For the measurements I didn’t have, I used the measurements I’d used to make a jerkin for myself. It’s not a perfect match since I’m quite a bit bigger than Ryan, but since our goal is to make this an outer garment big enough to wear over his other clothes, the difference should put me right about where I wat to be anyhow. The one measurement I wasn’t able to fudge was arm length. We’ll just have to adjust that while fitting the mockup.
Lesson’s learned? I want graph paper with a grid smaller than a quarter inch, and I want larger sheets of it. I ended up taping several sheets together to get the size I needed, but that’s both a waste of time and annoying when sketching the pattern out onto the paper.
Next step – making a full sized fabric pattern